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Quritilgan vino sharobiga stakan ko'taring

Quritilgan vino sharobiga stakan ko'taring


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Dunyoning toza suviga bir vaqtning o'zida bir shisha vino etkazib berishga qanday yordam berish mumkin

Bugun men vinochilik nafaqat bizning hayotimizga, balki atrofimizdagi dunyoga ham ta'sirini ko'rib chiqmoqchiman. Bu qishloq xo'jaligining juda intensiv turi bo'lishi mumkin, chunki ko'pgina ishlab chiqaruvchilar o'g'itlar, pestitsidlar, qo'ziqorinlarga qarshi vositalar va uglerodli yoqilg'ining katta miqdorini ishlab chiqarishda ishlatishadi, faqat eng katta omillarni aytish mumkin.

Dehqonchilikning tez -tez e'tibordan chetda qoladigan jihatlaridan biri bu suvdan foydalanishdir. Qishloq xo'jaligida ishlatiladigan kimyoviy chiqindilar va kimyoviy qo'shimchalar haqida gap ketganda, biz hammamiz xiralashgan bo'lsak -da, biz ko'pincha hayotning asosiy talabi - suvdan foydalanishni o'rganishni unutamiz.

Men aytmoqchi emasman, suv - bu ma'lum darajada yangilanadigan cheklangan manba, lekin bizning qishloq xo'jaligi tizimimiz bu resursni suvli qatlamlarimizga to'ldirishga qaraganda tezroq ishlatmoqda. Xo'sh, bu haqda nima qilishimiz kerak? Biz qila oladigan ko'p narsa bor, lekin bugun qila oladigan yagona narsa - quruq fermer uzumidan tayyorlangan bir shisha sharob ichish. Mana mening eng sevimlilarimdan beshtasi.

Quruq xo'jalik sharoblari uchun slayd -shou uchun bu erni bosing.

- Gregori Dal Piaz, Snooth


Italiya-Amerika klassikasi tovuq Marsalaga tovuq ko'tarish

G'arbiy Sitsiliya va uning atrofida ishlab chiqarilgan Marsala sharoblari har xil shirinlik darajasida bo'ladi, lekin ularning tarkibida standart quruq vinolardan qolgan shakar kamida to'rt baravar ko'p. Bu (juda) mustahkamlangan vinolar Evropada uzoq tarixga ega, biroq amerikaliklarning aksariyati ularni italyan-amerikalik taom bilan bog'lashadi: tovuq Marsala.

Ko'pchilik ma'lumotlarga ko'ra, Marsala vinolari 1773 yilda Sitsiliyadagi Marsala shahriga kelgan ingliz vino savdogari Jon Vudxausga xalqaro miqyosda qarzdordir. Sherri, Port va Madeyrada ixtisoslashgan Vudxaus xuddi shunday qarish jarayonidan foydalangan holda ishlab chiqarilgan sitsiliya sharobini kashf qilib, hayron qoldi. Sherri solera usuli. Pul topish kerakligini sezgan - o'sha paytdagi sheriya Buyuk Britaniya modasining eng baland cho'qqisi edi - Vudxaus Marsaladan bir necha bochka sotib oldi va Angliyaga safar paytida uni saqlab qolish uchun sharobni uzum ruhi bilan mustahkamladi. Tez orada Marsala Buyuk Britaniyada Viktoriya va Edvardiyada mashhur bo'ldi.

Hozirgi kunda Marsala pishirish uchun eng yaxshi ingredient sifatida tanilgan, ayniqsa klassik tovuq va dana Marsala kontekstida butun mamlakat bo'ylab qizil sosli italyan-amerikan restoranlarida. (Bu Marsalaning yaxshi sharoblari yo'q degani emas - ular Vudxaus davridagi kabi orzu qilingan joyga yaqin emas.)

Bu siz sotib oladigan oxirgi tirnoq

"Bu juda mazali va mazali taom",-deydi Glenn Rolnik, Carmine ’s oshxona operatsiyalari bo'yicha direktori, Italiya-Amerika tarmog'i AQShda beshta va Bagamada. . 1990 yilda tashkil etilgan Karminning vazifasi taomning o'zi uchun metafora bo'lishi mumkin: "Biz har kuni yakshanba kuni tushdan keyin buvimnikida bo'lishni xohlaymiz!"

Carmine tovuqi Marsalada tovuq skallopini bor, u ko'kragini uzunasiga bo'laklarga bo'laklab, un, tuz va murch sepib tayyorlanadi. Ovqat pishirishdan oldin, Rolnik go'shtni bu aralashmada yengil surtadi - "Biz ortiqcha unning yonishini xohlamaymiz", - deydi u va keyin uni qizdirilgan idishda qizg'ish jigarrang bo'lgunga qadar kanola yog'i sepiladi.

Sosni yaratish uchun Rolnik piyoz va tugma qo'ziqorinlarini karamelizatsiyadan boshlaydi. "Issiq idish juda muhim, chunki siz qo'ziqorinlardan barcha sharbatlar va suyuqlik chiqishini xohlamaysiz", deydi u.

Bir necha daqiqadan so'ng, u taomning nomini bildiruvchi ingredientni qo'shadi. "Biz to'la chashka Marsala qo'shamiz, bu boy ta'mga ega bo'ladi", - tushuntiradi Rolnik. Sharob o'z uyining dana zaxirasini qo'shmasdan oldin uning hajmining yarmigacha pishiradi, unga rang, lazzat chuqurligi va yopishqoq tuzilish qo'shiladi. Tovuq go'shtidan tashqari, sousga "yangi makaron, risotto, noodle yoki hatto sabzavot qo'shilishi mumkin", deydi u.

Spagetti va köfte yoki penne alla aroq kabi, Marsala tovuqi - immigrantlar uchun haq.

"Bu italyan-amerikalik taom",-deydi Nyu-Yorkdagi Felidia muassasining bosh oshpazi Fortunato Nikotra, tovuq Marsala haqida. Sitsiliyalik Nikotra, Marsala tovuqining Amerika bo'ylab yoqadigan versiyasi, ehtimol, tegishli ingredientlarga ega bo'lmagan holda, bolalikdan lazzatni qayta tiklashga urinayotgan muhojirlar mahsulidir, deb hisoblaydi.

"Sitsiliyada biz Marsala bilan pishiramiz, lekin odatda qo'zichoq yoki cho'chqa go'shti pishiramiz", deb tushuntiradi u. "Natija juda yaxshi - Marsala tovuqidan ko'ra yaxshiroq!"

Qattiq so'zlar, lekin u aniq fikr bildiradi. Nisbatan past haroratda qovurish yoki suyuqlikda uzoq vaqt pishirish go'shtni quritmasdan yumshoq qilib qo'yadi. Asosiy afzalliklardan biri shundaki, u go'shtni pishirish sharobining xushbo'y hidi bilan to'ldiradi. Yupqa tug'ralgan tovuqni tezda qovurib, sharobni sous sifatida ishlatganda bu mumkin emas.

Sitsiliyada, deydi Nikotra, ishlatiladigan go'sht turi mavsumga bog'liq - bahorda va yozning boshida qo'zichoq, kuzda va qishda cho'chqa go'shti. (Eng yaxshisi, deydi Nikotra, orolning Nebrodi tog'larida tug'ilgan Sitsiliya qora cho'chqasi. "Bu juda oz o'yinchoq, shuning uchun Marsalaning shirinligi bilan birgalikda bu ajoyib kombinatsiya.")

Italiyalik Amerika uslubidagi tovuqni Marsala qilayotganda, siz ishlatadigan Marsala turi muhim ahamiyatga ega. "Menga odatda o'rta yoki o'rta quruq Marsala yoqadi va men hech narsani juda qimmat ishlatmasligim kerak", deydi Nikotra. Carmine's Rolnik biroz shirinroq sosni tayyorlash uchun shirin Marsalani afzal ko'radi.


Italiya-Amerika klassikasi tovuq Marsalaga tovuq ko'tarish

G'arbiy Sitsiliya va uning atrofida ishlab chiqarilgan Marsala sharoblari har xil shirinlik darajasida bo'ladi, lekin ularning tarkibida standart quruq vinolardan qolgan shakar kamida to'rt baravar ko'p. Bu (juda) mustahkamlangan vinolar Evropada uzoq tarixga ega, biroq amerikaliklarning aksariyati ularni italyan-amerikalik taom bilan bog'lashadi: tovuq Marsala.

Ko'pgina ma'lumotlarga ko'ra, Marsala vinolari 1773 yilda Sitsiliyadagi Marsala shahriga kelgan ingliz vino savdogari Jon Vudxausga xalqaro miqyosda qarzdordir. Sherri, Port va Madeyrada ixtisoslashgan Vudxaus xuddi shunday qarish jarayoni yordamida ishlab chiqarilgan sitsiliya sharobini kashf qilganidan hayron bo'ldi. Sherri solera usuli. Pul topish kerakligini sezgan - o'sha paytdagi sheriya Buyuk Britaniya modasining eng baland cho'qqisi edi - Vudxaus Marsaladan bir necha bochka sotib oldi va Angliyaga safar paytida uni saqlab qolish uchun sharobni uzum ruhi bilan mustahkamladi. Tez orada Marsala Buyuk Britaniyada Viktoriya va Edvardiyada mashhur bo'ldi.

Hozirgi kunda Marsala pishirish uchun eng yaxshi ingredient sifatida tanilgan, ayniqsa klassik tovuq va dana Marsala kontekstida butun mamlakat bo'ylab qizil sosli italyan-amerikan restoranlarida. (Bu Marsalaning yaxshi sharoblari yo'q degani emas - ular Vudxaus davridagi kabi orzu qilingan joyga yaqin emas.)

Bu siz sotib oladigan oxirgi tirnoq

"Bu juda mazali va mazali taom",-deydi Glenn Rolnik, Carmine ’s oshxona operatsiyalari bo'yicha direktori, Italiya-Amerika tarmog'i AQShda beshta va Bagamada. . 1990 yilda tashkil etilgan Karminning vazifasi taomning o'zi uchun metafora bo'lishi mumkin: "Biz har kuni yakshanba kuni tushdan keyin buvimnikida bo'lishni xohlaymiz!"

Carmine tovuqi Marsalada tovuq skallopini bor, u ko'kragini uzunasiga bo'laklarga bo'laklab, un, tuz va murch sepib tayyorlanadi. Pishirishdan oldin, Rolnik go'shtni bu aralashmada yupqa qilib qovuradi - "Biz ortiqcha unning yonishini xohlamaymiz", - deydi u va keyin qizdirilgan idishda tilla ranggacha qovurib, kanola yog'i sepiladi.

Sosni yaratish uchun Rolnik piyoz va tugma qo'ziqorinlarini karamelizatsiyadan boshlaydi. "Issiq idish juda muhim, chunki siz qo'ziqorinlardan barcha sharbatlar va suyuqliklar chiqishini xohlamaysiz", deydi u.

Bir necha daqiqadan so'ng, u taomning nomini bildiruvchi ingredientni qo'shadi. "Biz to'la chashka Marsala qo'shamiz, bu boy ta'mga ega bo'ladi", - tushuntiradi Rolnik. Sharob o'z uyining dana zaxirasini qo'shmasdan oldin uning hajmining yarmigacha pishiradi, unga rang, lazzat chuqurligi va yopishqoq tuzilish qo'shiladi. Tovuq go'shtidan tashqari, sousga "yangi makaron, risotto, noodle yoki hatto sabzavot qo'shilishi mumkin", deydi u.

Spagetti va köfte yoki penne alla aroq kabi, tovuq Marsala - immigrantlar uchun haq.

"Bu italyan-amerikalik taom",-deydi Nyu-Yorkdagi Felidia muassasining bosh oshpazi Fortunato Nikotra, tovuq Marsala haqida. Sitsiliyalik Nikotra, Marsala tovuqining Amerika bo'ylab yoqadigan versiyasi, ehtimol, tegishli ingredientlarga ega bo'lmagan holda, bolalikdan lazzatni qayta tiklashga harakat qilayotgan muhojirlar mahsuli deb hisoblaydi.

"Sitsiliyada biz Marsala bilan pishiramiz, lekin odatda qo'zichoq yoki cho'chqa go'shti pishiramiz", deb tushuntiradi u. "Natija juda yaxshi - Marsala tovuqidan ko'ra yaxshiroq!"

Qattiq so'zlar, lekin u aniq fikr bildiradi. Nisbatan past haroratda qovurish yoki suyuqlikda uzoq vaqt pishirish go'shtni quritmasdan yumshoq qilib qo'yadi. Asosiy afzalliklardan biri shundaki, u go'shtni pishirish sharobining xushbo'y hidi bilan to'ldiradi. Yupqa tug'ralgan tovuqni tezda qovurib, sharobni sous sifatida ishlatganda bu mumkin emas.

Sitsiliyada, deydi Nikotra, ishlatiladigan go'sht turi mavsumga bog'liq - bahorda va yozning boshida qo'zichoq, kuzda va qishda cho'chqa go'shti. (Eng yaxshisi, deydi Nikotra, orolning Nebrodi tog'larida tug'ilgan Sitsiliya qora cho'chqasi. "Bu juda oz o'yinchoq, shuning uchun Marsalaning shirinligi bilan birgalikda bu ajoyib kombinatsiya.")

Italiyalik Amerika uslubidagi tovuqni Marsala qilayotganda, siz ishlatadigan Marsala turi muhim ahamiyatga ega. "Menga odatda o'rta yoki o'rta quruq Marsala yoqadi va men hech narsani juda qimmat ishlatmasligim kerak", deydi Nikotra. Carmine's Rolnik biroz shirinroq sos yaratish uchun shirin Marsalani afzal ko'radi.


Italiya-Amerika klassikasi tovuq Marsalaga tovuq ko'tarish

G'arbiy Sitsiliya va uning atrofida ishlab chiqarilgan Marsala sharoblari har xil shirinlik darajasida bo'ladi, lekin ularning tarkibida standart quruq vinolardan qolgan shakar kamida to'rt baravar ko'p. Bu (juda) mustahkamlangan vinolar Evropada uzoq tarixga ega, lekin ko'pchilik amerikaliklar ularni italyan-amerikalik taomlari bilan bog'lashadi: tovuq Marsala.

Ko'pchilik ma'lumotlarga ko'ra, Marsala vinolari 1773 yilda Sitsiliyadagi Marsala shahriga kelgan ingliz vino savdogari Jon Vudxausga xalqaro miqyosda qarzdordir. Sherri, Port va Madeyrada ixtisoslashgan Vudxaus xuddi shunday qarish jarayonidan foydalangan holda ishlab chiqarilgan sitsiliya sharobini kashf qilib, hayron qoldi. Sherri solera usuli. Pul topish kerakligini sezgan - o'sha paytdagi sheriya Buyuk Britaniya modasining eng baland cho'qqisi edi - Vudxaus Marsaladan bir necha bochka sotib oldi va Angliyaga safar paytida uni saqlab qolish uchun sharobni uzum ruhi bilan mustahkamladi. Tez orada Marsala Buyuk Britaniyada Viktoriya va Edvardiyada mashhur bo'ldi.

Hozirgi kunda Marsala pishirish uchun eng yaxshi ingredient sifatida tanilgan, ayniqsa klassik tovuq va dana Marsala kontekstida butun mamlakat bo'ylab qizil sosli italyan-amerikalik restoranlarda. (Bu Marsalaning yaxshi sharoblari yo'q degani emas - ular Vudxaus davridagi kabi orzu qilingan joyga yaqin emas.)

Bu siz sotib oladigan oxirgi tirnoq

"Bu juda mazali va mazali taom",-deydi Glenn Rolnik, Carmine ’s oshxona operatsiyalari bo'yicha direktori, Italiya-Amerika tarmog'i AQShda beshta va Bagamada. . 1990 yilda tashkil etilgan Karminning vazifasi taomning o'zi uchun metafora bo'lishi mumkin: "Biz har kuni yakshanba kuni tushdan keyin buvimnikida bo'lishni xohlaymiz!"

Carmine tovuqi Marsalada tovuq skallopini bor, u ko'kragini uzunasiga bo'laklarga bo'laklab, un, tuz va murch sepib tayyorlanadi. Pishirishdan oldin, Rolnik go'shtni bu aralashmada yupqa qilib qovuradi - "Biz ortiqcha unning yonishini xohlamaymiz", - deydi u va keyin qizdirilgan idishda tilla ranggacha qovurib, kanola yog'i sepiladi.

Sosni yaratish uchun Rolnik piyoz va tugma qo'ziqorinlarini karamelizatsiyadan boshlaydi. "Issiq idish juda muhim, chunki siz qo'ziqorinlardan barcha sharbatlar va suyuqlik chiqishini xohlamaysiz", deydi u.

Bir necha daqiqadan so'ng, u taomning nomini bildiruvchi ingredientni qo'shadi. "Biz to'la chashka Marsala qo'shamiz, bu boy ta'mga ega bo'ladi", - tushuntiradi Rolnik. Sharob o'z uyining dana zaxirasini qo'shmasdan oldin uning hajmining yarmigacha pishiradi, unga rang, lazzat chuqurligi va yopishqoq tuzilish qo'shiladi. Tovuq go'shtidan tashqari, sousga "yangi makaron, risotto, noodle yoki hatto sabzavot qo'shilishi mumkin", deydi u.

Spagetti va köfte yoki penne alla aroq kabi, Marsala tovuqi - immigrantlar uchun haq.

"Bu italyan-amerikalik taom",-deydi Nyu-Yorkdagi Felidia muassasining bosh oshpazi Fortunato Nikotra, tovuq Marsala haqida. Sitsiliyalik Nikotra, Marsala tovuqining Amerika bo'ylab yoqadigan versiyasi, ehtimol, tegishli ingredientlarga ega bo'lmagan holda, bolalikdan lazzatni qayta tiklashga urinayotgan muhojirlar mahsulidir, deb hisoblaydi.

"Sitsiliyada biz Marsala bilan pishiramiz, lekin odatda qo'zichoq yoki cho'chqa go'shti pishiramiz", deb tushuntiradi u. "Natija juda yaxshi - Marsala tovuqidan ko'ra yaxshiroq!"

Qattiq so'zlar, lekin u aniq fikr bildiradi. Nisbatan past haroratda qovurish yoki suyuqlikda uzoq vaqt pishirish go'shtni quritmasdan yumshoq qilib qo'yadi. Asosiy afzalliklardan biri shundaki, u go'shtni pishirish sharobining xushbo'y hidi bilan to'ldiradi. Yupqa tug'ralgan tovuqni tezda qovurib, sharobni sous sifatida ishlatganda bu mumkin emas.

Sitsiliyada, deydi Nikotra, ishlatiladigan go'sht turi mavsumga bog'liq - bahorda va yozning boshida qo'zichoq, kuzda va qishda cho'chqa go'shti. (Eng yaxshisi, deydi Nikotra, orolning Nebrodi tog'larida tug'ilgan Sitsiliya qora cho'chqasi. "Bu juda oz o'yinchoq, shuning uchun Marsalaning shirinligi bilan birgalikda bu ajoyib kombinatsiya.")

Italiyalik Amerika uslubidagi tovuqni Marsala qilayotganda, siz ishlatadigan Marsala turi muhim ahamiyatga ega. "Menga odatda o'rta yoki o'rta quruq Marsala yoqadi va men hech narsani juda qimmat ishlatmasligim kerak", deydi Nikotra. Carmine's Rolnik biroz shirinroq sos yaratish uchun shirin Marsalani afzal ko'radi.


Italiya-Amerika klassikasi tovuq Marsalaga tovuq ko'tarish

G'arbiy Sitsiliya va uning atrofida ishlab chiqarilgan Marsala sharoblari har xil shirinlik darajasida bo'ladi, lekin ularning tarkibida standart quruq vinolardan qolgan shakar kamida to'rt baravar ko'p. Bu (juda) mustahkamlangan vinolar Evropada uzoq tarixga ega, biroq amerikaliklarning aksariyati ularni italyan-amerikalik taom bilan bog'lashadi: tovuq Marsala.

Ko'pgina ma'lumotlarga ko'ra, Marsala vinolari 1773 yilda Sitsiliyadagi Marsala shahriga kelgan ingliz vino savdogari Jon Vudxausga xalqaro miqyosda qarzdordir. Sherri, Port va Madeyrada ixtisoslashgan Vudxaus xuddi shunday qarish jarayoni yordamida ishlab chiqarilgan sitsiliya sharobini kashf qilganidan hayron bo'ldi. Sherri solera usuli. Pul topish kerakligini sezgan - o'sha paytdagi sheriya Buyuk Britaniya modasining eng baland cho'qqisi edi - Vudxaus Marsaladan bir necha bochka sotib oldi va Angliyaga safar paytida uni saqlab qolish uchun sharobni uzum ruhi bilan mustahkamladi. Tez orada Marsala Buyuk Britaniyada Viktoriya va Edvardiyada mashhur bo'ldi.

Hozirgi kunda Marsala pishirish uchun eng yaxshi ingredient sifatida tanilgan, ayniqsa klassik tovuq va dana Marsala kontekstida butun mamlakat bo'ylab qizil sosli italyan-amerikalik restoranlarda. (Bu Marsalaning yaxshi sharoblari yo'q degani emas - ular Vudxaus davridagi kabi orzu qilingan joyga yaqin emas.)

Bu siz sotib oladigan oxirgi tirnoq

"Bu juda mazali va mazali taom",-deydi Glenn Rolnik, Carmine ’s oshxona operatsiyalari bo'yicha direktori, Italiya-Amerika tarmog'i AQShda beshta va Bagamada. . 1990 yilda tashkil etilgan Karminning vazifasi taomning o'zi uchun metafora bo'lishi mumkin: "Biz har kuni yakshanba kuni tushdan keyin buvimnikida bo'lishni xohlaymiz!"

Carmine tovuqi Marsalada tovuq skallopini bor, u ko'kragini uzunasiga bo'laklarga bo'laklab, un, tuz va murch sepib tayyorlanadi. Pishirishdan oldin, Rolnik go'shtni bu aralashmada yupqa qilib qovuradi - "Biz ortiqcha unning yonishini xohlamaymiz", - deydi u va keyin qizdirilgan idishda tilla ranggacha qovurib, kanola yog'i sepiladi.

Sosni yaratish uchun Rolnik piyoz va tugma qo'ziqorinlarini karamelizatsiyadan boshlaydi. "Issiq idish juda muhim, chunki siz qo'ziqorinlardan barcha sharbatlar va suyuqlik chiqishini xohlamaysiz", deydi u.

Bir necha daqiqadan so'ng, u taomning nomini bildiruvchi ingredientni qo'shadi. "Biz to'la chashka Marsala qo'shamiz, bu boy ta'mga ega bo'ladi", - tushuntiradi Rolnik. Sharob o'z uyining dana zaxirasini qo'shmasdan oldin uning hajmining yarmigacha pishiradi, unga rang, lazzat chuqurligi va yopishqoq tuzilish qo'shiladi. Tovuq go'shtidan tashqari, sousga "yangi makaron, risotto, noodle yoki hatto sabzavot qo'shilishi mumkin", deydi u.

Spagetti va köfte yoki penne alla aroq kabi, Marsala tovuqi - immigrantlar uchun haq.

"Bu italyan-amerikalik taom",-deydi Nyu-Yorkdagi Felidia muassasining bosh oshpazi Fortunato Nikotra, tovuq Marsala haqida. Sitsiliyalik Nikotra, Marsala tovuqining Amerika bo'ylab yoqadigan versiyasi, ehtimol, tegishli ingredientlarga ega bo'lmagan holda, bolalikdan lazzatni qayta tiklashga harakat qilayotgan muhojirlar mahsuli deb hisoblaydi.

"Sitsiliyada biz Marsala bilan pishiramiz, lekin odatda qo'zichoq yoki cho'chqa go'shti pishiramiz", deb tushuntiradi u. "Natija juda yaxshi - Marsala tovuqidan ko'ra yaxshiroq!"

Qattiq so'zlar, lekin u aniq fikr bildiradi. Nisbatan past haroratda qovurish yoki suyuqlikda uzoq vaqt pishirish go'shtni quritmasdan yumshoq qilib qo'yadi. Asosiy afzalliklardan biri shundaki, u go'shtni pishirish sharobining xushbo'y hidi bilan to'ldiradi. Yupqa tug'ralgan tovuqni tezda qovurib, sharobni sous sifatida ishlatganda bu mumkin emas.

Sitsiliyada, deydi Nikotra, ishlatiladigan go'sht turi mavsumga bog'liq - bahorda va yozning boshida qo'zichoq, kuzda va qishda cho'chqa go'shti. (Eng yaxshisi, deydi Nikotra, orolning Nebrodi tog'larida tug'ilgan Sitsiliya qora cho'chqasi. "Bu juda oz o'yinchoq, shuning uchun Marsalaning shirinligi bilan birgalikda bu ajoyib kombinatsiya.")

Italiyalik Amerika uslubidagi tovuqni Marsala qilayotganda, siz ishlatadigan Marsala turi muhim ahamiyatga ega. "Menga odatda o'rta yoki o'rta quruq Marsala yoqadi va men hech narsani juda qimmat ishlatmasligim kerak", deydi Nikotra. Carmine's Rolnik biroz shirinroq sosni tayyorlash uchun shirin Marsalani afzal ko'radi.


Italiya-Amerika klassikasi tovuq Marsalaga tovuq ko'tarish

G'arbiy Sitsiliya va uning atrofida ishlab chiqarilgan Marsala vinolari har xil shirinlik darajasida bo'ladi, lekin ularning tarkibida standart quruq vinolardan qolgan shakar kamida to'rt baravar ko'p. Bu (juda) mustahkamlangan vinolar Evropada uzoq tarixga ega, lekin ko'pchilik amerikaliklar ularni italyan-amerikalik taomlari bilan bog'lashadi: tovuq Marsala.

Ko'pgina ma'lumotlarga ko'ra, Marsala vinolari 1773 yilda Sitsiliyadagi Marsala shahriga kelgan ingliz vino savdogari Jon Vudxausga xalqaro miqyosda qarzdordir. Sherri, Port va Madeyrada ixtisoslashgan Vudxaus xuddi shunday qarish jarayoni yordamida ishlab chiqarilgan sitsiliya sharobini kashf qilganidan hayron bo'ldi. Sherri solera usuli. Pul topish kerakligini sezgan - o'sha paytdagi sheriya Buyuk Britaniya modasining eng baland cho'qqisi edi - Vudxaus Marsaladan bir necha bochka sotib oldi va Angliyaga safar paytida uni saqlab qolish uchun sharobni uzum ruhi bilan mustahkamladi. Tez orada Marsala Buyuk Britaniyada Viktoriya va Edvardiyada mashhur bo'ldi.

Hozirgi kunda Marsala pishirish uchun eng yaxshi ingredient sifatida tanilgan, ayniqsa klassik tovuq va dana Marsala kontekstida butun mamlakat bo'ylab qizil sosli italyan-amerikalik restoranlarda. (Bu Marsalaning yaxshi sharoblari yo'q degani emas - ular Vudxaus davridagi kabi orzu qilingan joyga yaqin emas.)

Bu siz sotib oladigan oxirgi tirnoq

"Bu juda mazali va mazali taom",-deydi Glenn Rolnik, Carmine ’s oshxona operatsiyalari bo'yicha direktori, Italiya-Amerika tarmog'i AQShda beshta va Bagamada. . 1990 yilda tashkil etilgan Karminning vazifasi taomning o'zi uchun metafora bo'lishi mumkin: "Biz har kuni yakshanba kuni tushdan keyin buvimnikida bo'lishni xohlaymiz!"

Carmine tovuqi Marsalada tovuq skallopini bor, u ko'kragini uzunasiga bo'laklarga bo'laklab, un, tuz va murch sepib tayyorlanadi. Pishirishdan oldin, Rolnik go'shtni bu aralashmada yupqa qilib qovuradi - "Biz ortiqcha unning yonishini xohlamaymiz", - deydi u va keyin qizdirilgan idishda tilla ranggacha qovurib, kanola yog'i sepiladi.

Sosni yaratish uchun Rolnik piyoz va tugma qo'ziqorinlarini karamelizatsiyadan boshlaydi. "Issiq idish juda muhim, chunki siz qo'ziqorinlardan barcha sharbatlar va suyuqlik chiqishini xohlamaysiz", deydi u.

Bir necha daqiqadan so'ng, u taomning nomini bildiruvchi ingredientni qo'shadi. "Biz to'la chashka Marsalani qo'shamiz, bu boy ta'mga ega bo'ladi", - tushuntiradi Rolnik. Sharob o'z uyining dana zaxirasini qo'shmasdan oldin uning hajmining yarmigacha pishiradi, unga rang, lazzat chuqurligi va yopishqoq tuzilish qo'shiladi. Tovuq go'shtidan tashqari, sousga "yangi makaron, risotto, noodle yoki hatto sabzavot qo'shilishi mumkin", deydi u.

Spagetti va köfte yoki penne alla aroq kabi, tovuq Marsala - immigrantlar uchun haq.

"Bu italyan-amerikalik taom",-deydi Nyu-Yorkdagi Felidia muassasining bosh oshpazi Fortunato Nikotra, tovuq Marsala haqida. Sitsiliyalik Nikotra, Marsala tovuqining Amerika bo'ylab yoqadigan versiyasi, ehtimol, tegishli ingredientlarga ega bo'lmagan holda, bolalikdan lazzatni qayta tiklashga harakat qilayotgan muhojirlar mahsuli deb hisoblaydi.

"Sitsiliyada biz Marsala bilan pishiramiz, lekin odatda qo'zichoq yoki cho'chqa go'shti pishiramiz", deb tushuntiradi u. "Natija juda yaxshi - Marsala tovuqidan ko'ra yaxshiroq!"

Qattiq so'zlar, lekin u aniq fikr bildiradi. Nisbatan past haroratda qovurish yoki suyuqlikda uzoq vaqt pishirish go'shtni quritmasdan yumshoq qilib qo'yadi. Asosiy afzalliklardan biri shundaki, u go'shtni pishirish suyuqligining lazzati bilan to'ldiradi. Yupqa tug'ralgan tovuqni tezda qovurib, sharobni sous sifatida ishlatganda bu mumkin emas.

Sitsiliyada, deydi Nikotra, ishlatiladigan go'sht turi mavsumga bog'liq - bahorda va yozning boshida qo'zichoq, kuzda va qishda cho'chqa go'shti. (Eng yaxshisi, deydi Nikotra, orolning Nebrodi tog'larida tug'ilgan Sitsiliya qora cho'chqasi. "Bu juda oz o'yinchoq, shuning uchun Marsalaning shirinligi bilan birgalikda bu ajoyib kombinatsiya.")

Italiyalik Amerika uslubidagi tovuqni Marsala qilayotganda, siz ishlatadigan Marsala turi muhim ahamiyatga ega. "Menga odatda o'rta yoki o'rta quruq Marsala yoqadi, va, albatta, juda qimmat narsalarni ishlatmang", deydi Nikotra. Carmine's Rolnik biroz shirinroq sos yaratish uchun shirin Marsalani afzal ko'radi.


Italiya-Amerika klassikasi tovuq Marsalaga tovuq ko'tarish

G'arbiy Sitsiliya va uning atrofida ishlab chiqarilgan Marsala vinolari har xil shirinlik darajasida bo'ladi, lekin ularning tarkibida standart quruq vinolardan qolgan shakar kamida to'rt baravar ko'p. Bu (juda) mustahkamlangan vinolar Evropada uzoq tarixga ega, lekin ko'pchilik amerikaliklar ularni italyan-amerikalik taomlari bilan bog'lashadi: tovuq Marsala.

Ko'pchilik ma'lumotlarga ko'ra, Marsala vinolari 1773 yilda Sitsiliyadagi Marsala shahriga kelgan ingliz vino savdogari Jon Vudxausga xalqaro miqyosda qarzdordir. Sherri, Port va Madeyrada ixtisoslashgan Woodhouse shunga o'xshash qarish jarayonidan foydalangan holda ishlab chiqarilgan sitsiliya sharobini topganidan hayron bo'ldi. Sherri solera usuli. Pul topish kerakligini his qildim - o'sha paytda Sherri Buyuk Britaniya modasining eng baland cho'qqisi edi - Vudxaus Marsaladan bir necha bochka sotib oldi va Angliyaga safar paytida uni saqlab qolish uchun sharobni uzum ruhi bilan mustahkamladi. Tez orada Marsala Buyuk Britaniyada Viktoriya va Edvardiyada mashhur bo'ldi.

Hozirgi kunda Marsala pishirish uchun eng yaxshi ingredient sifatida tanilgan, ayniqsa klassik tovuq va dana Marsala kontekstida butun mamlakat bo'ylab qizil sosli italyan-amerikalik restoranlarda. (Bu Marsalaning yaxshi sharoblari yo'q degani emas - ular Vudxaus davridagi kabi orzu qilingan joyga yaqin emas.)

Bu siz sotib oladigan oxirgi tirnoq

Glenn Rolnik, "Carmine ’s" ning oshpazlik operatsiyalari bo'yicha direktori, AQShda beshta va Bagamada joylashgan. . 1990 yilda tashkil etilgan Karminning vazifasi taomning o'zi uchun metafora bo'lishi mumkin: "Biz har kuni yakshanba kuni tushdan keyin buvimnikida bo'lishni xohlaymiz!"

Carmine tovuqi Marsalada tovuq skallopini bor, u ko'kragini uzunasiga bo'laklarga bo'laklab, un, tuz va murch sepib tayyorlanadi. Ovqat pishirishdan oldin, Rolnik go'shtni bu aralashmada yengil surtadi - "Biz ortiqcha unning yonishini xohlamaymiz", - deydi u va keyin uni qizdirilgan idishda qizg'ish jigarrang bo'lgunga qadar kanola yog'i sepiladi.

Sosni yaratish uchun Rolnik piyoz va tugma qo'ziqorinlarini karamelizatsiyadan boshlaydi. "Issiq idish juda muhim, chunki siz qo'ziqorinlardan barcha sharbatlar va suyuqliklar chiqishini xohlamaysiz", deydi u.

Bir necha daqiqadan so'ng, u taomning nomini bildiruvchi ingredientni qo'shadi. "Biz to'la chashka Marsalani qo'shamiz, bu boy ta'mga ega bo'ladi", - tushuntiradi Rolnik. Sharob o'z uyining dana zaxirasini qo'shmasdan oldin uning hajmining yarmigacha pishiradi, unga rang, lazzat chuqurligi va yopishqoq tuzilish qo'shiladi. Tovuqdan tashqari, sousga "yangi makaron, risotto, noodle yoki hatto sabzavot qo'shilishi mumkin", deydi u.

Spagetti va köfte yoki penne alla aroq kabi, tovuq Marsala - immigrantlar uchun haq.

"Bu italyan-amerikalik taom",-deydi Nyu-Yorkdagi Felidia muassasining bosh oshpazi Fortunato Nikotra, tovuq Marsala haqida. Sitsiliyalik Nikotra, Marsala tovuqining Amerika bo'ylab yoqadigan versiyasi, ehtimol, tegishli ingredientlardan foydalanmasdan, bolaligidan lazzat yaratishga harakat qilayotgan muhojirlar mahsulidir, deb hisoblaydi.

"Sitsiliyada biz Marsala bilan pishiramiz, lekin odatda qo'zichoq yoki cho'chqa go'shti pishiramiz", deb tushuntiradi u. "Natija juda yaxshi - Marsala tovuqidan ko'ra yaxshiroq!"

Qattiq so'zlar, lekin u aniq fikr bildiradi. Nisbatan past haroratda qovurish yoki suyuqlikda uzoq vaqt pishirish go'shtni quritmasdan yumshoq qilib qo'yadi. Asosiy afzalliklaridan biri shundaki, u go'shtni pishirish sharobining xushbo'y hidi bilan ham to'ldiradi. Yupqa tug'ralgan tovuqni tez qovurib, sharobni sous sifatida ishlatganda bu mumkin emas.

Sitsiliyada, deydi Nikotra, ishlatiladigan go'sht turi mavsumga bog'liq - bahorda va yozning boshida qo'zichoq, kuzda va qishda cho'chqa go'shti. (Eng yaxshisi, deydi Nikotra, orolning Nebrodi tog'larida tug'ilgan Sitsiliya qora cho'chqasi. "Bu juda oz o'yinchoq, shuning uchun Marsalaning shirinligi bilan birgalikda bu ajoyib kombinatsiya.")

Italiyalik Amerika uslubidagi tovuqni Marsala qilayotganda, siz ishlatadigan Marsala turi muhim ahamiyatga ega. "Menga odatda o'rta yoki o'rta quruq Marsala yoqadi va men hech narsani juda qimmat ishlatmasligim kerak", deydi Nikotra. Carmine's Rolnik biroz shirinroq sos yaratish uchun shirin Marsalani afzal ko'radi.


Italiya-Amerika klassikasi tovuq Marsalaga tovuq ko'tarish

G'arbiy Sitsiliya va uning atrofida ishlab chiqarilgan Marsala sharoblari har xil shirinlik darajasida bo'ladi, lekin ularning tarkibida standart quruq vinolardan qolgan shakar kamida to'rt barobar ko'p. Bu (og'ir) mustahkamlangan vinolar Evropada uzoq tarixga ega, biroq amerikaliklarning ko'pchiligi ularni italyan-amerikalik taom bilan bog'lashadi: tovuq Marsala.

Ko'pchilik ma'lumotlarga ko'ra, Marsala vinolari 1773 yilda Sitsiliyadagi Marsala shahriga kelgan ingliz vino savdogari Jon Vudxausga xalqaro miqyosda qarzdordir. Sherri, Port va Madeyrada ixtisoslashgan Woodhouse shunga o'xshash qarish jarayonidan foydalangan holda ishlab chiqarilgan sitsiliya sharobini topganidan hayron bo'ldi. Sherri solera usuli. Pul topish kerakligini his qildim - o'sha paytda Sherri Buyuk Britaniya modasining eng baland cho'qqisi edi - Vudxaus Marsaladan bir necha bochka sotib oldi va Angliyaga safar paytida uni saqlab qolish uchun sharobni uzum ruhi bilan mustahkamladi. Tez orada Marsala Buyuk Britaniyada Viktoriya va Edvardiyada mashhur bo'ldi.

Hozirgi kunda Marsala pishirish uchun eng yaxshi ingredient sifatida tanilgan, ayniqsa klassik tovuq va dana Marsala kontekstida butun mamlakat bo'ylab qizil sosli italyan-amerikalik restoranlarda. (Bu Marsalaning yaxshi sharoblari yo'q degani emas - ular Vudxaus davridagi kabi orzu qilingan joyga yaqin emas.)

Bu siz sotib oladigan oxirgi tirnoq

Glenn Rolnik, "Carmine ’s" ning oshpazlik operatsiyalari bo'yicha direktori, AQShda beshta va Bagamada joylashgan. . 1990 yilda tashkil etilgan Karminning vazifasi taomning o'zi uchun metafora bo'lishi mumkin: "Biz har kuni yakshanba kuni tushdan keyin buvimnikida bo'lishni xohlaymiz!"

Carmine tovuqi Marsalada tovuq skallopini bor, u ko'kragini uzunasiga bo'laklarga bo'laklab, un, tuz va murch sepib tayyorlanadi. Ovqat pishirishdan oldin, Rolnik go'shtni aralashtirib qo'yadi - "Biz ortiqcha unning yonishini xohlamaymiz", - deydi u va keyin uni qizdirilgan idishda qizg'ish jigarrang bo'lgunga qadar kanola yog'i sepiladi.

Sosni yaratish uchun Rolnik piyoz va tugma qo'ziqorinlarini karamelizatsiyadan boshlaydi. "Issiq idish juda muhim, chunki siz qo'ziqorinlardan barcha sharbatlar va suyuqlik chiqishini xohlamaysiz", deydi u.

Bir necha daqiqadan so'ng, u taomga nom beradigan ingredientni qo'shadi. "Biz to'la chashka Marsalani qo'shamiz, bu boy ta'mga ega bo'ladi", - tushuntiradi Rolnik. Sharob o'z uyining dana zaxirasini qo'shmasdan oldin uning hajmining yarmigacha pishiradi, unga rang, lazzat chuqurligi va yopishqoq tuzilish qo'shiladi. Tovuqdan tashqari, sousga "yangi makaron, risotto, noodle yoki hatto sabzavot qo'shilishi mumkin", deydi u.

Spagetti va köfte yoki penne alla aroq kabi, tovuq Marsala - immigrantlar uchun haq.

"Bu italyan-amerikalik taom",-deydi Nyu-Yorkdagi Felidia muassasining bosh oshpazi Fortunato Nikotra, tovuq Marsala haqida. Sitsiliyalik Nikotra, Marsala tovuqining Amerika bo'ylab yoqadigan versiyasi, ehtimol, tegishli ingredientlardan foydalanmasdan, bolaligidan lazzat yaratishga harakat qilayotgan muhojirlar mahsulidir, deb hisoblaydi.

"Sitsiliyada biz Marsala bilan pishiramiz, lekin odatda qo'zichoq yoki cho'chqa go'shti pishiramiz", deb tushuntiradi u. "Natija juda yaxshi - Marsala tovuqidan ko'ra yaxshiroq!"

Qattiq so'zlar, lekin u aniq fikr bildiradi. Nisbatan past haroratda qovurish yoki suyuqlikda uzoq vaqt pishirish go'shtni quritmasdan yumshoq qilib qo'yadi. Asosiy afzalliklardan biri shundaki, u go'shtni pishirish sharobining xushbo'y hidi bilan to'ldiradi. Yupqa tug'ralgan tovuqni tezda qovurib, sharobni sous sifatida ishlatganda bu mumkin emas.

In Sicily, Nicotra says, the type of meat used depends on the season — lamb in spring and early summer, and pork in fall and winter. (Best of all, Nicotra says, is the Sicilian black swine, native to the island’s Nebrodi Mountains. “It’s a little gamey, so, combined with the sweetness of Marsala, it’s a really great combination.”)

When making an Italian American-style chicken Marsala, the type of Marsala you use is important. “I usually like a medium or medium-dry Marsala, and obviously don’t use anything too expensive,” Nicotra says. Carmine’s Rolnick prefers sweet Marsala to create a slightly sweeter sauce.


Raising a Glass to Chicken Marsala, an Italian-American Classic

Produced in and around western Sicily, Marsala wines come in varying degrees of sweetness, but all contain at least four times the residual sugar of standard dry wines. These (heavily) fortified wines have a long history in Europe, but most Americans associate them with an iconic Italian-American dish: chicken Marsala.

By most accounts, Marsala wines owe their international footprint to English wine merchant John Woodhouse, who came to Marsala, Sicily in 1773. Specializing in sherry, Port, and Madeira, Woodhouse was surprised to discover a Sicilian wine produced using a similar aging process to sherry’s solera method. Sensing there was money to be made — sherry was the height of U.K. fashion at the time — Woodhouse purchased some barrels of Marsala and fortified the wine with a grape spirit to help preserve it during the journey to England. Marsala soon became massively popular in Victorian and Edwardian Britain.

Nowadays, Marsala is best known as a cooking ingredient, particularly in the context of classic chicken and veal Marsala at red-sauce Italian-American restaurants nationwide. (This is not to say that fine Marsala drinking wines don’t exist — they do they’re just nowhere near as coveted as in Woodhouse’s day.)

Bu siz sotib oladigan oxirgi tirnoq

“It’s a dish that’s meant to be hearty — rich in sauce and flavor,” says Glenn Rolnick, director of culinary operations for Carmine’s, an Italian-American chain with five locations in the U.S. and one in the Bahamas. Founded in 1990, Carmine’s mission could easily be a metaphor for the dish itself: “We want every day to feel like a Sunday afternoon at Grandma’s!”

Carmine’s chicken Marsala features chicken scallopini, made by slicing the breast in half lengthwise and seasoning with flour, salt, and pepper. Before cooking, Rolnick lightly coats the meat in this mix — “We don’t want any excess flour to burn,” he says — and then sautés it until golden brown in a preheated pan with a splash of canola oil.

To create the sauce, Rolnick starts by caramelizing onions and button mushrooms. “A hot pan is extremely important because you don’t want all the juices and liquid to come out of the mushrooms,” he says.

After a few minutes, he adds the dish’s name-giving ingredient. “We add a full cup of Marsala, which creates a rich savory flavor,” Rolnick explains. The wine cooks down to half its volume before a rich house-made veal stock is incorporated, adding color, depth of flavor, and a viscous texture. In addition to chicken, the sauce “can be accompanied by fresh pasta, risotto, noodles, or even a vegetable on the side,” he says.

Like spaghetti and meatballs or penne alla vodka, chicken Marsala is immigrant fare.

“It’s an Italian-American dish,” Fortunato Nicotra, executive chef at New York institution Felidia, says of chicken Marsala. A Sicilian native, Nicotra believes the version of chicken Marsala enjoyed throughout America is likely the product of immigrants trying to recreate a flavor from their childhood, without access to the relevant ingredients.

“In Sicily, we cook with Marsala but usually to braise lamb or pork,” he explains. “The result is great — probably much better than chicken Marsala!”

Tough words, but he makes a solid point. Braising, or cooking in liquid for a long time at a relatively low temperature, turns meat tender without drying it out. One of the main advantages is that it also infuses the meat with the flavor of the cooking liquor. This isn’t possible when quickly sautéing thinly sliced chicken and using the wine as sauce.

In Sicily, Nicotra says, the type of meat used depends on the season — lamb in spring and early summer, and pork in fall and winter. (Best of all, Nicotra says, is the Sicilian black swine, native to the island’s Nebrodi Mountains. “It’s a little gamey, so, combined with the sweetness of Marsala, it’s a really great combination.”)

When making an Italian American-style chicken Marsala, the type of Marsala you use is important. “I usually like a medium or medium-dry Marsala, and obviously don’t use anything too expensive,” Nicotra says. Carmine’s Rolnick prefers sweet Marsala to create a slightly sweeter sauce.


Raising a Glass to Chicken Marsala, an Italian-American Classic

Produced in and around western Sicily, Marsala wines come in varying degrees of sweetness, but all contain at least four times the residual sugar of standard dry wines. These (heavily) fortified wines have a long history in Europe, but most Americans associate them with an iconic Italian-American dish: chicken Marsala.

By most accounts, Marsala wines owe their international footprint to English wine merchant John Woodhouse, who came to Marsala, Sicily in 1773. Specializing in sherry, Port, and Madeira, Woodhouse was surprised to discover a Sicilian wine produced using a similar aging process to sherry’s solera method. Sensing there was money to be made — sherry was the height of U.K. fashion at the time — Woodhouse purchased some barrels of Marsala and fortified the wine with a grape spirit to help preserve it during the journey to England. Marsala soon became massively popular in Victorian and Edwardian Britain.

Nowadays, Marsala is best known as a cooking ingredient, particularly in the context of classic chicken and veal Marsala at red-sauce Italian-American restaurants nationwide. (This is not to say that fine Marsala drinking wines don’t exist — they do they’re just nowhere near as coveted as in Woodhouse’s day.)

Bu siz sotib oladigan oxirgi tirnoq

“It’s a dish that’s meant to be hearty — rich in sauce and flavor,” says Glenn Rolnick, director of culinary operations for Carmine’s, an Italian-American chain with five locations in the U.S. and one in the Bahamas. Founded in 1990, Carmine’s mission could easily be a metaphor for the dish itself: “We want every day to feel like a Sunday afternoon at Grandma’s!”

Carmine’s chicken Marsala features chicken scallopini, made by slicing the breast in half lengthwise and seasoning with flour, salt, and pepper. Before cooking, Rolnick lightly coats the meat in this mix — “We don’t want any excess flour to burn,” he says — and then sautés it until golden brown in a preheated pan with a splash of canola oil.

To create the sauce, Rolnick starts by caramelizing onions and button mushrooms. “A hot pan is extremely important because you don’t want all the juices and liquid to come out of the mushrooms,” he says.

After a few minutes, he adds the dish’s name-giving ingredient. “We add a full cup of Marsala, which creates a rich savory flavor,” Rolnick explains. The wine cooks down to half its volume before a rich house-made veal stock is incorporated, adding color, depth of flavor, and a viscous texture. In addition to chicken, the sauce “can be accompanied by fresh pasta, risotto, noodles, or even a vegetable on the side,” he says.

Like spaghetti and meatballs or penne alla vodka, chicken Marsala is immigrant fare.

“It’s an Italian-American dish,” Fortunato Nicotra, executive chef at New York institution Felidia, says of chicken Marsala. A Sicilian native, Nicotra believes the version of chicken Marsala enjoyed throughout America is likely the product of immigrants trying to recreate a flavor from their childhood, without access to the relevant ingredients.

“In Sicily, we cook with Marsala but usually to braise lamb or pork,” he explains. “The result is great — probably much better than chicken Marsala!”

Tough words, but he makes a solid point. Braising, or cooking in liquid for a long time at a relatively low temperature, turns meat tender without drying it out. One of the main advantages is that it also infuses the meat with the flavor of the cooking liquor. This isn’t possible when quickly sautéing thinly sliced chicken and using the wine as sauce.

In Sicily, Nicotra says, the type of meat used depends on the season — lamb in spring and early summer, and pork in fall and winter. (Best of all, Nicotra says, is the Sicilian black swine, native to the island’s Nebrodi Mountains. “It’s a little gamey, so, combined with the sweetness of Marsala, it’s a really great combination.”)

When making an Italian American-style chicken Marsala, the type of Marsala you use is important. “I usually like a medium or medium-dry Marsala, and obviously don’t use anything too expensive,” Nicotra says. Carmine’s Rolnick prefers sweet Marsala to create a slightly sweeter sauce.


Raising a Glass to Chicken Marsala, an Italian-American Classic

Produced in and around western Sicily, Marsala wines come in varying degrees of sweetness, but all contain at least four times the residual sugar of standard dry wines. These (heavily) fortified wines have a long history in Europe, but most Americans associate them with an iconic Italian-American dish: chicken Marsala.

By most accounts, Marsala wines owe their international footprint to English wine merchant John Woodhouse, who came to Marsala, Sicily in 1773. Specializing in sherry, Port, and Madeira, Woodhouse was surprised to discover a Sicilian wine produced using a similar aging process to sherry’s solera method. Sensing there was money to be made — sherry was the height of U.K. fashion at the time — Woodhouse purchased some barrels of Marsala and fortified the wine with a grape spirit to help preserve it during the journey to England. Marsala soon became massively popular in Victorian and Edwardian Britain.

Nowadays, Marsala is best known as a cooking ingredient, particularly in the context of classic chicken and veal Marsala at red-sauce Italian-American restaurants nationwide. (This is not to say that fine Marsala drinking wines don’t exist — they do they’re just nowhere near as coveted as in Woodhouse’s day.)

Bu siz sotib oladigan oxirgi tirnoq

“It’s a dish that’s meant to be hearty — rich in sauce and flavor,” says Glenn Rolnick, director of culinary operations for Carmine’s, an Italian-American chain with five locations in the U.S. and one in the Bahamas. Founded in 1990, Carmine’s mission could easily be a metaphor for the dish itself: “We want every day to feel like a Sunday afternoon at Grandma’s!”

Carmine’s chicken Marsala features chicken scallopini, made by slicing the breast in half lengthwise and seasoning with flour, salt, and pepper. Before cooking, Rolnick lightly coats the meat in this mix — “We don’t want any excess flour to burn,” he says — and then sautés it until golden brown in a preheated pan with a splash of canola oil.

To create the sauce, Rolnick starts by caramelizing onions and button mushrooms. “A hot pan is extremely important because you don’t want all the juices and liquid to come out of the mushrooms,” he says.

After a few minutes, he adds the dish’s name-giving ingredient. “We add a full cup of Marsala, which creates a rich savory flavor,” Rolnick explains. The wine cooks down to half its volume before a rich house-made veal stock is incorporated, adding color, depth of flavor, and a viscous texture. In addition to chicken, the sauce “can be accompanied by fresh pasta, risotto, noodles, or even a vegetable on the side,” he says.

Like spaghetti and meatballs or penne alla vodka, chicken Marsala is immigrant fare.

“It’s an Italian-American dish,” Fortunato Nicotra, executive chef at New York institution Felidia, says of chicken Marsala. A Sicilian native, Nicotra believes the version of chicken Marsala enjoyed throughout America is likely the product of immigrants trying to recreate a flavor from their childhood, without access to the relevant ingredients.

“In Sicily, we cook with Marsala but usually to braise lamb or pork,” he explains. “The result is great — probably much better than chicken Marsala!”

Tough words, but he makes a solid point. Braising, or cooking in liquid for a long time at a relatively low temperature, turns meat tender without drying it out. One of the main advantages is that it also infuses the meat with the flavor of the cooking liquor. This isn’t possible when quickly sautéing thinly sliced chicken and using the wine as sauce.

In Sicily, Nicotra says, the type of meat used depends on the season — lamb in spring and early summer, and pork in fall and winter. (Best of all, Nicotra says, is the Sicilian black swine, native to the island’s Nebrodi Mountains. “It’s a little gamey, so, combined with the sweetness of Marsala, it’s a really great combination.”)

When making an Italian American-style chicken Marsala, the type of Marsala you use is important. “I usually like a medium or medium-dry Marsala, and obviously don’t use anything too expensive,” Nicotra says. Carmine’s Rolnick prefers sweet Marsala to create a slightly sweeter sauce.


Videoni tomosha qiling: jln, STAKAN, kota SAMARAHAN, SARAWAK MALAYSIA 2021 (Iyun 2022).


Izohlar:

  1. Nezil

    Unda biror narsa. Thanks immense for the help in this matter, now I will not admit such error.

  2. Leathlobhair

    Buyuk xabar Bravo)))

  3. Trevion

    the Competent answer

  4. Mazulkree

    Bravo, bu ajoyib ibora aniq maqsadga muvofiq bo'lishi kerak

  5. Woodrow

    Kechirasiz, lekin menimcha, xatolar amalga oshiriladi. Men buni isbotlay olaman. Menga kechqurun yozing.

  6. Ma'n

    Siz mening joyimda nima qildingiz?

  7. Jaisen

    You admit the mistake. Buni ko'rib chiqamiz.



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